New Generation June 9th, 2021

Young, nice, and cool guys: independent brands that you might not know

by Valeria Oppenheimer


Who are the current designers? We present you four of them who are conquering fashionistas and the international press. 



Born in 1997 in Buccino (Salerno) and graduated from IED in Milan in 2019 with his collection "Ossimoro Plastico", Francesco Murano became worldwide famous when, in January 2020, the singer Beyonce appeared at the Roc Nation's pre-Grammys Brunch wearing one of his garments. With the same collection, the young designer won the Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana Fashion Award during the fifth edition of Milano Moda Graduate and the 16th edition of "Who is On Next?". Fascinated by art and harmony of shapes, for autumn/winter 2022, Murano presents his collection that sees the woman as the geometric pivot of the world. Nine looks where statuesque shapes inspired by Ancient Greece (which were already the hallmark of his previous collections) are actualized by new harmony: Renaissance, geometrical and Leonardesque. The circle, a shape that coexists with other geometries, surrounds and enhances the female figure through drapery and its movements on the body. Even the accessories are circular but combined with square shapes, creating further contrasts. 



Not only is he a designer but also a professional dancer. Alessandro Vigilante proposes an aesthetic where fashion combines with dance. He graduated from IED in Milan, he won two competitions, My Own Way and My Own Show, sponsored by Vogue Italia. He was selected by Franca Sozzani together with some emerging talents for a debut fashion show at MFW. He worked for Dolce & Gabbana for 7 years, then for Gucci in Rome with Alessandro Michele, and eventually in Milan with the project Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini. From the need to dedicate to a personal project, he designed ATTO I, the launch collection of his homonymous brand. The garments highlight the body in movement through the contrast between male and female, tailoring and experimentation, graphic lines, and sensual curves. The more classic shapes become contemporary thanks to unpredictable combinations of natural fabrics, male wools, silk georgette, and alternative materials such as latex and sheath elastic net. 



Vaderetro is the project born from the encounter between Hanna Marine Boyer and Antonio D'Andrea, a couple in life and at work. The concept "not a brand, but an art of living" tells about a past that is actualized by an effortless and retrò aesthetic. Out of the logic of the fashion system, each collection is a unique, and nostalgic journey through time in which the wardrobe becomes a means to spread art, culture, genderless aesthetics, and unicity. The garments are hand-made in Italy with recycled fabrics. For the autumn/winter 2021/22 collection, "Chapter III - La Bonne Aventure", the brand takes inspiration from the theme of travel and nomadism of the Rom people, whose identity derives from the fusion of different cultures. The results are garments with an eternal style and go beyond the fashion trends: long skirts and soft dresses, but also structured blazers and gangster-style baggy trousers together with heavy layers of knitwear. 



Born in 1989 in Sicily, Slavo Rizza looks back on an important experience in the style office of Giambattista Valli in Paris. In 2019, when he came back to Italy, started the project DES_PHEMMES. The brand turns to an educated, strong woman who considers fashion a natural need and not an adjustment to the canons of the fashion system. Out of seasonal trends, the brand proposes a timeless aesthetic that destructures the stereotypes related to the concept of femininity. The collection S/S 2021 is called "Solleone" and takes inspiration from "EVIDENCE", a series of photographs by Mona Kuhn in which the artist looks into the relationship between the body and lights and shadows. The garments with essential lines play with the contrast between male and female. They are decorated with embroideries that trap light, giving shape to geometries and volumes. The effortless aesthetic of the collection leaves room also for the landscape suggestions of Sicily, evoking sunsets and coastal views. The wet nets of fishermen become waterfalls of Swarovski drops.