MAGAZINE February 22nd, 2021

VERNISSE Interview

 

In a Maison, there is an extreme attention to craftsmanship and achieving absolute durable quality, but reducing waste is not generally high on the list of priorities. 
Brands of a certain level don't have hyper-production of products but are plagued by extra-production of trials and samples during collection conception. Before being the founders of Vernisse, Francesca and Eugenia worked in the system, silent witnesses to the habit of waste. So they decided to found something of their own focused on the excellence of recovery and an honest and slow approach, at km zero.

When did you decide to start with your project?

"Our passion for fabrics and vintage research has always united us, and thanks also to our former jobs, we had quite a plan. We started from the archives we knew in Rome, to get to the Como silk producers in whose warehouses wonderful silks lay abandoned, building a network of suppliers who were passionate about our project, becoming part of it."

What kind of aesthetic approach do you have?

"Regardless of our educational background, this natural inclination that we both have to go in for vintage research, from clothing to interior design, clearly connotes our aesthetic as well, which is - yes - modern but with a certain taste for the past. When you see and touch one of our vintage silk or Como dresses, it is inevitable to refer to certain other types of quality clothing. A wardrobe of yesteryear where femininity is discreet, the garment impeccable and transformable: it suits everyone, at any age, worn formally or more casual. Let's think of an expensive silk blouse worn banally but not banally over a pair of jeans and loafers. We are feminine, but we are not prissy".

You also work around the concept of durability.

"Absolutely: both in design and packaging, aiming for the highest finishes in the details, even if not everyone notices them. Surely a well-made garment can be passed on to the next generation, a bit like we were raised drawing on our mothers' or grandmothers' wardrobes. When you buy a disposable garment, you preserve it differently from a tailored garment with a cost that requires a thoughtful purchase. In the second case, I will use every care to maintain it." 

Do you also use synthetic vintage fibers? 

"We wanted to clarify this topic because there is so much confusion about fibers, and to be sustainable, not everything can be handcrafted in Italy. We are not unimpeachable, but we want to emphasize that even with vintage, we look for fibers as little as possible composed that they can then be put back into circulation. In addition to upcycling, we also lay the groundwork for a circularity".

Where do you produce and how?

"Our seasonality is only determined by the climate. We produce in a laboratory in Brianza on demand, and we only sell online and through events. By selling directly, we don't have stock, and we don't risk accumulating unsold stock. It works like this: the customer selects a garment, waits two weeks, and receives it at home. This way, we also defend our economic availability by managing to keep the price down and spreading our distribution over the months. It does not weigh on the laboratory with unsustainable deliveries. We also work with a laboratory in Brescia that makes fabric belts, a reality of the utmost excellence".

 Are there any projects on the horizon?

"In addition to our iconic pieces, which are the chemisier and the shirts, we will present other garments moving closer to the total look. There is also collaboration on the horizon, and then we are happy to announce that we have taken over an archive of vintage trimmings, which we have begun to use."

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