MAGAZINE February 19th, 2021

STEFANO MORTARI Interview

 

Driving the brand forward is Stefano Mortari himself, as he explains in the interview that follows. 

What is fashion to you?

I don’t follow a concept of season and novelty, I prefer to concentrate and work on the continuity and evolution of a "timeless" style. I like the elegant woman, who right now overcomes the crisis by maintaining a simple and sensible style appropriate to the surrounding reality, which reminds us of what we are going through, as long as it leaves us a constructive sign. In the most defined area of fashion, it means elimination of the superfluous, discretion and simplicity. Women today more than ever must be at ease in the clothes they wear.

When and why did you start your brand?

The company was founded in Verona following the designer’s passion for materials, fabrics and yarns, with which he made his first garments. From these early collections - almost capsule collections - we moved on to the creation of a total look for women, so it became vital to open a showroom in Milan. I follow a research on form, on the elegance of proportions, on the concepts of lightness and freedom translated into style. The mood is timeless and never pursues a dominant taste. There is always a sophisticated purity with a contemporary twist that characterizes all our collections. The clothes, which are made with great care and attention to the quality of the materials, are developed in an almost sartorial way, based on volumes and cuts more than on prints, patterns or applications.

Where do you get inspiration when you create?

The starting point of creativity is always an source of inspiration a place, an era, a surprising detail that becomes concrete in the material of which the clothes are made with, following the sensory attraction for fabrics, yarns and processes. The collections do not follow a trend nor seeks a novelty that amazes but evolve remaining faithful to the vision "no-fashion / no-glam". The style draws inspiration from different and distant references like Japan, Northern Europe, minimalism, but the final synthesis brings it always back to Italy.

How would you describe the collection you will present at White Show Milano?

The style is built from the excellence of the yarns, which are largely natural and used in combination with each other. This enhances the characteristics and beauty of each material, improves the performance of the garment that becomes richer and with more flavor. The collection offers a wide range of garments with natural materials more recyclable and with the best environmental performance (a very low consumption of water and pesticides). We use only vegetable textile fibers for linings and make unique garments using yarns made from plant-based protein. In the last seasons technical materials have also been included that, despite their "artificial nature", have better environmental performance than some natural yarns such as cotton. These materials have superior technical characteristics, transformed following artisanal methods.

Do you have any future projects?

Because of the immediate and disruptive effect of the crisis, the situation is indeed very complicated. Rather than re-starting we must think of the new normality, rather than "speed" we must speak of "direction". Today, innovation must necessarily also include social and environmental issues. I am especially happy to know that there are important universities such as the IULM that launched in Milan the new Degree Course in Fashion and Creative Industries, where values such as sustainability, inclusiveness, cross-culture are taught according to a truly innovative approach. This is really important it for the future of fashion.

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