MAGAZINE May 25th, 2021

Knitwear according to ADĀMO : inclusive, sensual, and refined

By Marco Marini

 

Founding a brand in the middle of a pandemic that has afflicted the world and fashion market for over a year is a rather daring undertaking, almost impossible. However, it is exactly what the designer Andrea Adamo did with the brand bearing his name, ADĀMO Andrea Adamo, launched in July 2020. He is 37 years old, comes from Crotone with an impressive CV full of positions held at prestigious labels (Roberto Cavalli, Zuhair Murad, and Dolce&Gabbana). When he was stuck within the domestic walls during the first lockdown, he decided to fulfill the dream to build a brand that would peculiarly interpret the concept of sensuality, taking forward the demands of the movement Black Lives Matter in terms of inclusion and diversity. 

For the debut of his label, the designer goes back to the origins, to Adamo and Eva's nudity (nomen est omen), a condition that, according to him, should not be covered or artificially emphasized by a garment of the moment. The debut collection Spring/Summer 2021 is titled Nudo (Naked). It is entirely made in Italy, between Ancona and Desenzano del Garda and consists of a series of tops, vests, bodysuits, leggings, dresses, and other second-skin knit pieces, declined into several nude tonalities (which the designer avoids connoting, he only indicates them with a number, 01, 02, 03, etc.) to adapt to any skin tone. Wraparound garments, where slits and vents uncover portions of the skin, are produced with the technique called seamless, i.e. without seams so that they adapt to the body of who is wearing them. 

In the ADĀMO's proposals, the body defines the silhouette, not the opposite. To say it with Andrea's words, it is a "naturally sensual style." The clothes come to life through the body shapes and become their expression and fulfilment". 

A sense of fulfillment and introspective vision is proposed on the occasion of the rehearsal for the F/W 2021 Gli Amanti (The Lovers), in which Adamo, exhibiting cuts, stratifications, and cut-outs, playing with the garments making them merge, among bras on bodycon sheath dresses, bustiers on ton sur ton cardigans, crossed straps, cut-outs to uncover the right spots. 

Minimal with only collections, the brand can already boast of clients such as Kylie Jenner, Vanessa Kirby, Elodie, or Vittoria Ceretti. Even the retailers are relevant with famous international shops and department stores standing out, from Net-a-Porter to Selfridges, from Harvey Nichols to LuisaViaRoma. The brand has an elective affinity with the boutiques, and it intends to strengthen the relationship by signing ad hoc capsule collections. 

Looking at the future, it is expected to be announced soon the entry into the calendar of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. The creative director, interviewed recently by the Italian edition of Marie Claire, claimed to be ready to introduce "new outwear proposals and other little gems", highlighting an element that will continue to be central for the ready-to-wear branded ADĀMO, which is "research, research, research". 

 

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