MAGAZINE June 10th, 2021

3 brands Made in Italy to follow: Alessandro Vigilante, Ardusse, Vitelli

By Marco Marini

 

What these three designer labels have in common is the savoir-faire of Made in Italy. They are emerging brands and have all the credentials to conquer the critics and connoisseurs of the industry, enriching a story that is still to be written with new and meaningful chapters. The target is a niche of the modern fashion system, saturated with brands but always ready to welcome new actors who can stand out thanks to original proposals. 

Alessandro Vigilante

After 14 years of work for brands such as Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, and Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, in 2020 Alessandro Vigilante felt it was time to create a personal line that could materialize his sculptural and slightly erotic interpretation of the prêt-à-porter, aimed at enhancing the female figure with outfits that seem painted on the skin. His first collection, with a paradigmatic title, "Atto I", highlights the label's cornerstones, wrapping the silhouette in tight one-shoulder dresses, tops with cut-outs, and long dresses that leave the back uncovered. "I think there's nothing more expressive than backs," claimed the stylist." Sensual creation with overcoats, blazers, and mannish trousers as counterpoints. The dichotomy between stretch garments and larger models is central even in his following Fall/Winter 2021 collection, an homage to two seminal figures in the contemporary dance scene, Merce Cunningham and Pina Bausch. The designer does not neglect the theme of sustainability: latex, a recurring material in his collections, is obtained from natural rubber. The fact that names such as Elodie, Elisa, and Damiano David from the  Måneskin are amongst the brand's estimators confirms the quality of the sensual and refined aesthetics of Alessandro Vigilante. 

Ardusse

"I approached fashion to express the small world that I had in my mind": it is with these words, released to the newspaper MFF, that Gaetano Colucci announced his decision to launch his brand during the annus horribilis of the pandemic. His path was atypical: he graduated in Economics and then turned to the fashion biz creating Ardusse, whose name (a crasis of "arcadia" and "jeunesse") is a statement of intentions. The style he conceived is languid and dreamy, as a means to connect with a dimension defined by suffusing atmospheres, retro refinements, bucolic influences, and the absence of gender connotations. The debut of the S/S 2021 collection is a show inspired by the first Teocrito's idyll, in which the author wanders the myth of Arcadia, the immersion in Edenic nature. The Syracusan poet's suggestions pervade the selection of key pieces of the wardrobe - sartorial suits, parkas, blouses, and so on - signed Ardusse, which convey a sense of carefreeness and elegance through soft cuts, crochet details, watercolor tones, light nuances, from violet to antique rose. The defilè alternates bright velvet, inlaid coats, tapestry prints, and ruffles, celebrating the escapist power of the ready-to-wear. 

Vitelli

Mauro Simoniato and Giulia Bortoli, creative director, and knitwear designer, set up Vitelli in 2016, aiming to revolutionize the common perception of knitwear, making it a category with experimental and underground verve that draws from the dance and musical subcultures of the '80s and '90s, particularly from the "Cosmic Youth", a movement of hedonist clubbers that spread in 1980 in Italy. Each collection represents an iteration of the project "Gioventù Cosmica" and rotates around pullovers, cardigans, gilets with relaxed volumes and enlivened by multicolor patterns and thick texture. The brand is divided between the style office in Milan and Schio (Veneto), the textile district with solid know-how in knitwear, where garments are packaged. Since 2019, it has adopted an upcycling approach called "Doomboh". It uses a specific technique of needling and turns textile waste into yarn with which assembling outfits. Moreover, the brand has always proved to believe in the potentialities of creative contamination, starting several collaborations, including the one with the label of inclusive and sustainable lingerie Fantaboy and with Marsèll, Bloke, Cremate, and Rayon Vert, which allows Vitelli to translate his creative and energic attitude into different fields. 

 

 

OTHER ARTICLES

A conversation with: VANNIA GAVA, VANNIA GAVA, UNDERSECRETARY OF STATE FOR ECOLOGICAL TRANSITION
Discover more →

According to preliminary figures released by Confindustria Moda, the national federation that brings together textiles, fashion and accessories, the turnover in the industry grew by 22.2% reaching €91.7 bil...

See more →
IT'S BEACHWEAR TIME!
Discover more →

  The one and only must-have for Summer. The swimsuit, year after year, comes back as main piece of our wardrobe, shares our holidays with us and sometimes you can even spot it around the city. Here we bring to your att...

See more →
BMW Sustainable Mobility Partner di WHITE | SIGN OF THE TIMES 2022
Discover more →

White Milano, the Fashion Trade Show with focus on the most interesting names in the international fashion scene, on the SMEs, and on premium Italian craftsmanship, has launched a strategi...

See more →
DUARTE: ONE OF THE SPECIAL PROJECTS OF WHITE’S THE NEXT EDITION
Discover more →

  It is Ana Duarte, the designer with an illustrator's soul, who places her exclusive graphics at the core of her collection, one of the special projects of this edition of WHITE. How she takes sustainability into t...

See more →
FOCUS ON: MUL OLGA, creator of a new aesthetic: personal and kind to the environment
Discover more →

When we talk about style, today more than ever, we cannot ignore sustainability: a word abused in the fashion industry and exploited by too many. But amidst new rules at international level and the re-establishment of ...

See more →
MYTHS Interview
Discover more →

  What is fashion for you? Fashion makes it possible for us to represent who we are and to tell others what we are. So it is an oppo...

See more →
KIMONORAIN Interview
Discover more →

  Kimonorain is a technical and waterproof garment inspired by the oversized volumes of the Japanese kimono but designed and produced entirely in Arezzo. A brand based on a single, unisex and one-piece product, born...

See more →
House Of Florence - When love becomes a trademark
Discover more →

Tuscany, a place of unique flavors and exceptional wines, official excellence and a land of ancient craftsmen with a long tradition of high-end leather goods production. The new generations that decide to keep their production in Italy, show all t...

See more →